![]() I REALLY don't want to sand these down and add another coat. Any suggestions? Should I use a very thin varnish that will flow and self-level quite well? Could I use something like Tru-Oil? Or another wiping varnish? If not, should I use a sable brush, foam brush, or - heaven forbid - epoxy?Īny help appreciated. Rather than sanding down a flawless coat of varnish and dipping the butts again, I am thinking of lightly scuffing the signature area, signing the rods, and adding a coat of varnish by hand over the signature area only. You know the old saying "make a preacher cuss"? Last night I took the butt sections in the house to begin wrapping guides, ferrules, etc. And finally - Eureka! Hallelujah! - I have what appears to me to be a flawless finish on the butt sections. Two coats of varnish on the tips, and three on the butts. the works.īecause of the color combinations I have decided to wrap the rods after varnishing, thus avoiding dip tube problem with color preserved wraps. You know the type, fancier than usual wraps, super-select reel seat fillers, engraved hardware. One is for a customer, another for an auction. Both of these rods are supposed to be presentation grade. Over the last few weeks I have been working on the finish on two 7'9" hollow built, swelled and morticed butt five weights. Add in a little dumb luck and you have the ingredients for a nearly flawless finish in my particular setup. I have concocted a witches brew of varnish, Penetrol, and artist's grade thinners. Some of the more humorous aspects of that trial and error process have been chronicled here. My goal was a perfect, blemish-free finish. Pekka ~ Maker (Pete Van Schaack)įor three or four years I have been trying to improve the quality of finishes on my rods. You should give credit to the originator of the taper Paul Young taper - Driggs River. Some also mark the rod with a model number or name so that they can identify the taper. ![]() The buyers are interested a lot more in who made it than what taper it is. I believe the maker should sign the rod some way or other. There are so many variables in a bamboo rod that I don't think that anything I make will turn out much like any originals it may have descended from, I have a bad habit of changing tapers just to see what happens anyway. If the new owner wants to discuss what taper I started with, then I will tell him, but I won't put it in writing on the rod. So I just sign my own name and that's it. ![]() Personally, I've never felt comfortable riding another’s coattails, using their reputation to sell my (possibly nowhere near as good) rod. ) After all, wasn't he rescued from a certain island on the Norfork river a coupla years ago? (Mark Wendt) (Ed Berg)Īnd here I thought we were signing "The Nunley" on botched rods. ![]() If I botched it, I sign it with Greg Shockley's name. If I do a good job on a rod and I'm proud of my work I sign my name of it no matter who's taper it may have been originally. Paul Young would roll over in his grave if he knew the dimensions of what started out to be a Midge: it's only 5' 10"! (Henry Mitchell) On the other hand if it comes out totally different then I don't reference anyone else. (Larry Puckett)Ĭlarifying previous comment, I do sign my name so that it is clear who butchered the taper. What if you do a rod based on a Sir D which is a modification of a Cattanach modification of a Payne 100 (if I remember correctly). 7914." Is there a standard for nomenclature or does everyone have his own style regarding this. I feel credit should be given even if the taper isn't an exact copy, whether the curve smoothed or the length or line weight changed. The approach I've taken so far has been the initials of the taper's originator and the rod model. Good question, which I haven't seen addressed.
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